Homemade and Natural Cleaning Products

Erin Benhke  shared some great ideas, tips and recipes with us.

Homemade and Natural Cleaning Products

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I wanted to share with you some of my personal experience with homemade an natural products.  I have 17+ years of using these types of products, and have made plenty of mistakes a long the way.  Please learn from my trial and error to have your clothes and home as clean as you want it. 

First, scents really do play a huge role in what we purchase.  They make cleaning much more pleasant or unpleasant for us.  I cannot handle strong fragrance oils/scents.  They give me headaches.  I have learned that I really do need to stick with natural for this.  Essential Oils do not seem to bother me.  Sometimes I find it difficult to find pleasing smells in homemade EO blends, so I will purchased products that are already scented.  Dr. Bronner’s Castile Soaps come in many different pleasing scents.  If you don’t want to purchase a large amount of Eos to play around with, this is a good option.

Second, soaps and detergents work differently.  Detergents work better for getting clothes clean than soaps do.  In fact soaps will end up leaving your clothes with lots of mineral build up and will end up making them dingy and stinky over time.  I have found that short cuts or money saving homemade products do not work effectively in my laundry.  My favorite laundry products come from Bio Kleen (Bac Out is the BEST).  Although after learning more about detergents this past month, I will be trying something new from Costco soon.  I also have to mention that I love Shaklee’s Basic H.  A little goes a long way, it can be used for countless applications, and I can scent it any way I want to. 

Third, here are things that are a waste of money:

·         Ceramic Washing Machine Balls- these are a scam, one I fell for for way too long, and my laundry suffered greatly.

·         Wool Dryer balls- people swear by these, but I have NOT seen any benefit other than fluffing capabilities, and tennis balls would work as well.

     Lastly, here is my basic list of things you need to make just about anything:

·         Vinegar

·         Dish Soap or Castile Soap

·         Baking Soda

·         Essential Oils

·         Hydrogen Peroxide

·         White Toothpaste

·         Lemons

·         Borax

·         Citric Acid (if you want to make fancy 1 time use pods)

Recipes

Foaming Hand Soap (For 1 16-oz or 2 8-oz dispensers):

2 cups of water, boiled an cooled (or distilled)

1-2 TBSP of castile soap

10-20 drops lemon or orange essential oil

Put ingredients into pump dispenser.  Start with 10 drops of EO, and add more to your preference.

Time Saving Tip: Use a scented castile soap that you like and fill the dispensers with 2 TBSP and 2 cups of water.

Variations:

Unscented- don’t use EO

Other scents- put 10-20 drops of your favorite EO (mine is Four Thieves by Eden’s Garden because it keeps sickness away)

Extra Moisturizing- add 1 tsp. of vitamin E oil

Lemon Microwave Cleaner:

4 Cups water

1 Lemon

Put 4 cups of water into a microwave save bowl.  Juice  the lemon into the water, and put both halves of the juiced lemon into the bowl.  Microwave for 3-5 minutes, then let sit and steam for 10 minutes.  Wipe clean with damp cloth.

Lemon and Clove Nightly Sink Scrub:

2 cups baking soda

10 drops Lemon EO

10 drops Clove EO

1 squirt of dish soap

Add baking soda to jar and scent with EO.  Stir to combine.  Wet kitchen sink a bit and sprinkle up to ¼ cup of baking soda in sink.  Add a squirt of dish soap and scrub with a brush.  Rinse and dry with a cloth.  Store leftovers in a cool, dark place indefinitely.

Granite Cleaner:

3 TBSP Rubbing Alcohol

2 Cups of water

¼ tsp. castile soap or dish soap

Add ingredients in a spray bottle and shake to combine.

Spray on granite and wipe clean with a microfiber cloth.

Store in spray bottle for up to 1 month.

Kitchen Disinfecting Spray:

16-ounce container of hydrogen peroxide- use 3% solution that you find in the drugstore

Spray top

Find a spray top that will fit your bottle.  Rinse any food particles away, and spray surface with hydrogen peroxide.  Let stand for 10 minutes and wipe or rinse clean (you can use castile soap for this).  Make sure to keep in original container. 

This is great for cutting boards.

Resources:

Great cleaning resource:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/LaundryLoveandScience/

Best enzyme cleaner for laundry and best carpet cleaner:

http://www.amazon.com/Biokleen-Bac-Out-Foaming-Action-Sprayer/dp/B001OI0YWG

I just like this stuff (Shaklee):

http://www.amazon.com/Basic-Organic-Super-Cleaning-Concentrate/dp/B008PBNHBA

A great book, and its free on amazon wireless:

http://www.amazon.com/Organically-Clean-Home-Yourself---Chemical-Free/dp/1440572518/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1445011354&sr=1-1&keywords=the+organically+clean+home

Soap Nuts:

http://www.amazon.com/NaturOli-Organic-Soap-Berries-PIECES/dp/B001NU2L8U

DIY Laundry Essentials

Jeannine Tripp shared a video and her recipes for homemade laundry essentials!

Homemade Laundry Products

Laundry Soap

1/2 bar Fels Naphtha Soap (can use Zote or Dr. Bronners bar soap)
1/2 c. Borax powder
1/2 c. Arm and Hammer Washing Soda
bucket
water

1. Grate bar of soap & put in large sauce pan
2. Add 6 cups water and heat until the soap melts
3. Add Borax and Washing Soda, stir until dissolved
4. Pour 4 cups hot tap water into bucket
5. Add soap mixture and stir together
6. Add another 22 c. hot water and stir until combined
7. Let cool and set up for 12-24 hours

Use 1/2 cup per load (2 tablespoons for front load washers. Add directly to clothes.)

Good idea to double recipe and make it in a 5 gallon bucket.

You can add a few drops of essential oil right into your washer to add fragrance.

For more cleaning power add more Borax to mix (3/4 cup)

Pour into gallon jugs (like Vinegar jug) before it gels up. Shake bit before each load. Sets better on shelf this way.


Spray & Wash Laundry Spot Cleaner

1/2 cup vinegar
1/2 cup ammonia
1/2 cup liquid laundry soap
1/2 cup water
Mix together in spray bottle. Spray on grease or food spots, or dirty collars and cuffs. Wash garment as usual.

Price at Walmart

Fels Naphtha $.97

Washing Soda $3.97

Borax $3.97

Fabric Softener

Laundry soap has a naturally alkaline pH, which can be a bit harsh for skin. To restore clothes to a pH that is skin friendly, it’s important to rinse with an acid like vinegar. In addition to its pH restoring superpowers, vinegar also softens fabrics, dissolves excess detergent and minerals, and reduces static cling. And don’t worry, your clothes won’t smell sour when they come out of the dryer!

Ingredients:
White vinegar

To Use:
Add 1⁄2 cup to the rinse cycle, or add it to a Downy ball at the beginning of the cycle.

WARNING:
Do not combine with bleach – the two liquids create toxic fumes when mixed.


Scented Dryer Sheets

Here is an easy way to add scent to your laundry! Though these dryer sheets don’t reduce static cling – use homemade fabric softener and/or wool dryer balls for that – they will leave your sheets, shirts, socks and everything in between smelling fresh and clean.

Ingredients/Equipment:
Essential oil (your choice of scent)
Several pieces of cotton or flannel cloth, cut into 4-6 inch squares

To Make:
Cut pieces of fabric into squares. Old t-shirts work great!

To Use:
Run your clothes through an entire dryer cycle. When they’re done place about 8-10 drops of essential oil on a damp cloth and toss it in the dryer for 10-15 minutes on a “no heat” cycle.

Remove, fluff and fold!

Wash dryer sheets every 7-10 loads.

Storage:
Store essential oils away from heat and sunlight, preferably in dark glass bottles or a dark cabinet.

Pear Butter and Conserve

Submitted by Elizabeth Leech.

Pear Butter

From the Kerr Blue Book I copied from my landlady Clara Thomas, probably from the 50s.

Wash pears. Do not peel. Slice. Add small amount of water to start cooking. Cook until very soft. Press through colander. To each cup pulp add 1/2 cup sugar. (Spices may be added - 1/2 tsp. cinnamon to 3 cups pulp.) Cook until thick, stirring frequently to prevent scorching. Pour into sterilized jars and seal while hot.

Pear Conserve

From the Kerr Blue Book I copied from my landlady Clara Thomas, probably from the 50s.

5 pounds firm pears (15 cups sliced)

10 cups sugar

1 pound seedless raisins

rind of 2 oranges

juice of 3 oranges and 2 lemons

Peel pears and cut in small pieces. Add sugar and let stand overnight. Then add raisins, orange rind cut in small pieces, and juice of oranges and lemons.  Cook until thick, or about 30-35 minutes. Pour into sterilized jars and seal while hot.

Wibnote: I have made this one several times. It is delicious , especially if you blenderize the raisins. I didn't have oranges the first time so I did more lemon and it was really delightful. While it was cooking, it was a smell like heaven on earth.

Cherry Pineapple Conserve

Submitted by Elizabeth Leech.

From the Kerr Blue Book I copied from my landlady Clara Thomas, probably from the 50s.

4 cups cherries, pitted and ground

1 cup crushed pineapple, drained

3 cups sugar

Wash and pit cherries. Run them through food chopper and measure. Drain pineapple and measure. Add pineapple and sugar to cherries. Cook mixture rapidly until thick and clear, stirring frequently to prevent sticking. If desired, add 1/2 cup of chopped nut meats just before removing from the heat. Pour into sterilized jars and seal while hot.

Cherry Conserve

Submitted by Elizabeth Leech.

From the Kerr Blue Book I copied from my landlady Clara Thomas, probably from the 50s.

3 cups sour cherries

1 cup seedless raisins

3 cups water

sugar

Remove pits from cherries and cut raisins in pieces. Add water and boil 30 minutes. To each cup pulp and juice add 1 cup sugar. Cook rapidly until thick, stirring constantly. Pour into sterilized jars and seal while hot.

Wibnote: For any conserve that has raisins in it, I usually blend up the raisins, either in the water before cooking or after it's all mixed up. It's not authentic, but then you get the delicious taste without the children being grossed out.

Apricot Raspberry Jam

Submitted by Elizabeth Leech.

From the Kerr Blue Book I copied from my landlady Clara Thomas, probably from the 50s.

2 lb. fresh apricots (6 cups sliced)

1/4 cup water

4 1/2 cups sugar

1 1/2 cups raspberries

Add water to apricots which have been pared and pitted. Add sugar and raspberries and cook until jam is of desired consistency. Pour into sterilized jars and seal while hot.

wibnote: Delicious. A family favorite. Most of these jam recipes need longer to cook than it says. I don't know if the fruit is different or the stoves or what, but I usually test jam's doneness by dropping some onto a plate, putting that plate in the fridge for a couple minutes, and then seeing if the drops are jam-consistency.

Pineapple and Apricot Jam

Submitted by Elizabeth Leech.

From the Kerr Blue Book I copied from my landlady Clara Thomas, probably from the 50s.

2 1/2 pounds fresh apricots (7 cups sliced)

3 cups grated, canned pineapple

5 cups sugar

Wash and slice apricots, mix with sugar and pineapple (fruit and juice). Cook until desired consistency (about 25 minutes). Pour into sterilized jars and seal while hot.

Apricot Butter

Submitted by Elizabeth Leech.

From the Kerr Blue Book I copied from my landlady Clara Thomas, probably from the 50s.

10 cups apricots, sliced

1 cup water

sugar

juice and grated rind of 1 orange

Wash, pit and slice apricots. Add water and cook until soft. Press through sieve. Measure and to each cup pulp add 2/3 cup sugar. Add juice and grated rind of orange. Cook to desired consistency (about 10 to 15 minutes). Pour into sterilized jars and seal while hot.

Food Dehydration

So many reasons to dry foods for preparedness!

Saves money, food takes up less space for storage at home or in a 72 hour pack, is convenient  to use for camping or just taking on trips or even to work or school, does not take a lot of equipment, uses up leftovers, does not require power like a freezer so it makes sense for preparedness, you can tailor your foods to accommodate special dietary needs, and it’s FUN! It is also a good idea to have food stored in different ways. There is a place for canning, freezing, pickling and dehydrating. You will want to preserve your food in a variety of ways.

We are going to talk about 1) different dehydrators and their various features in order for you to find out which dehydrator may work out best for you. 2) a little bit about the dehydrating process, 3) how to make sure that your dehydrated food is safe to eat, 4) and how to store your dehydrated food.

Let’s look at some dehydrators first. Dehydrators come in a variety of types and price ranges. The less expensive dehydrators are usually round with stacking trays. Simple ones have just a heating element in the bottom and depend on heat rising to dry the food on the racks which are stacked. It is important to rotate these racks to dry the food evenly. Other inexpensive dehydrators have a heater and a fan. Food is placed on the racks and the warm air is circulated through the racks. Some instructions state that rotating racks is not necessary, however, it is probably still a good idea to maintain even drying. Some dehydrators have optional liners or solid sheets that fit over the trays to hold semi-liquid foods or very soft foods that would otherwise fall through the openings in the trays. These are necessary to make fruit leathers or to dehydrate some camping meals like spaghetti with a sauce. Some dehydrators have a thermostat to regulate the temperature. The more expensive dehydrators may be in a box shape with drawers to hold the food. Some dehydrators, especially the box style, have the heater and the fan at the back of the box. This arrangement allows the air to move evenly across the trays, and if food or juices drip onto the bottom they are easily cleaned up. Dehydrators can also be made at home to suit your particular needs. There are many videos and instructions available on the internet if you want to build your own. These can be simple and made out of a box, or they can be large enough to walk into!

I have asked a few sisters to bring their dehydrators and point out the various features and tell what they like and maybe what they do not like about their dehydrators.

( in the order they are arranged) THANK YOU! Always be sure to follow the instructions in your own dehydrator!

Foods can also be dried using an oven. This can be tricky as most ovens now cannot be set to low temperatures, and they cycle off and on, and it is necessary to strike a balance between heat from the oven, and having the oven door open enough to allow moisture to escape. This will take some experimenting as all ovens are different.

Some sun ovens can be used for dehydrating. Read your owner’s manual for ideas on your sun oven, or if you have made your own, you will want to experiment a bit. Again, there will be the balance between heat and allowing moisture to escape. An oven thermometer will be helpful no matter which method you use. A sun dehydrator can be made with a box and a piece of glass. Again, search the internet or watch some videos and see what will work for you. I always recommend watching all the videos you can find, and reading all the articles you can before trying something. This way you will learn that there are many ways to do something and you can pick and choose what will work for you.

Finally, there is the no dehydrator way! If we are lucky enough to have a warm sunny day with low humidity, you can simply dry food outdoors. Put parchment paper or plastic wrap or cooling racks on cookie sheets and place food in the sun. it is important to keep insects away from your food as it dries, so plan to cover the food and protect it on all sides using cheesecloth, or nylon netting or screening. Again, do some research and experiment to see what works for you. Use things you have on hand. When we lived in southern California I used to make fruit leather. If it did not finish drying in one day, I put it in the garage overnight and finished it the next day. The humidity is much higher here in North Carolina so you will need to choose the best days to dehydrate foods or make leather outside.

 OK, let’s talk about the process itself. As with any food preparation, it is important to have your kitchen and equipment clean and to have all of the things you will need ready. It is also important to follow instructions for each food just as you would for any cooking or preserving process. Some foods are easier to dehydrate than others. Some can just be washed, sliced thin and put into the dehydrator. Strawberries are a good example of that. Apples, however, need an extra step. You will want to drop your apple slices into water to which lemon juice has been added in order to keep the apples from turning brown.  Vegetables often need a blanching step before dehydrating, and meat may need to be cooked to an internal temperature of 160, then cooled before putting into the dehydrator.

•   Do your prep work for the amount of food that will fit into your dehydrator. Don’t put some food in and then add more later. Put it all in at the same time. It is ok to put different foods in at the same time, but you will not want to put strong flavored foods in with mild flavored foods or spicy foods, as these flavors will spread around to all the food in the dehydrator.
• The pieces should be very close in size and thickness so they will dry at about the same rate.
•  Place the food in the dehydrator so that air can circulate all around each piece. Add an oven thermometer even if your machine has a thermometer so you can double check the heat level.
•  Make a note of the time the dehydrator is started so you will have an idea of what time the food should finish. Try to start in the morning when you are just learning, so you will be able to watch the food and be ready to take it out when it is done.
• Check the food and rotate trays about every hour so you can watch and learn the process. Monitor the two thermometers, especially as you get close to the end of the drying time. The dehydrator may start to get very hot as the moisture level in the food decreases. This may affect the flavor and texture of your food.
• Remove each piece of food when it has dried. Keep the pieces in a clean dry place to cool and prepare for the conditioning process.
• Condition the food after it has dried and cooled. Conditioning ensures that the food batch is evenly dried. Some pieces may be a bit over dried and some may have a bit of extra moisture. You want each piece to be dried evenly. Place that pieces in a glass jar with a tight lid. Put the jar in a cool dry place out of light, in a pantry or cupboard. Watch if for 3 or 4 days. Notice if there is any moisture beading up on the glass. If you see any moisture, immediately open the jar and place all the food back into the dehydrator for a few hours, then cool and recondition.
•  Pasteurization of food is the next step. Sun dried food must be pasteurized before storing, as it is always possible that it has been contaminated by insects while outdoors. There are two ways to pasteurize dehydrated foods.
•  1) heat - Place the foods on cookie sheets an oven preheated to 175, Bake for 15 minutes, then cool and package for storage.
• 2) freezing – food may be frozen either before or after final packaging. The freezer must be at 0 degrees, so use a thermometer to check. Place food in containers and put in coldest part of the freezer for 48 hours.
•  Dried food needs to be stored in tightly sealed containers like canning jars. You can also use jelly jars or peanut butter jars that have been thoroughly cleaned. Food does best when stored away from light and heat.

My recommendation is to get a good book on dehydrating, or do some research on the types of foods you plan to dry, and then download or print out or write up your own instructions and put them in a 3 ring binder with your other favorite recipes or preparedness information.